This particular SAK has a medicine advertisement logo at the back for the Flonase steriod nasal spray medicine from GlaxoSmithKline Pharmaceuticals company.
Reference:
www.sakwiki.com
Wednesday, December 03, 2014
COLLECTION: Victorinox Golf Tool
The latest iteration of the Victorinox Golf Tool. Introduced by Victorinox in 1999, it replaced the 91mm Golfer. This is one of the SAK tools that Victorinox has in its lineup that is not within the normal 91mm frame.
This particular SAK has a medicine advertisement logo at the back for the Flonase steriod nasal spray medicine from GlaxoSmithKline Pharmaceuticals company.
Reference:
www.sakwiki.com
This particular SAK has a medicine advertisement logo at the back for the Flonase steriod nasal spray medicine from GlaxoSmithKline Pharmaceuticals company.
Reference:
www.sakwiki.com
COLLECTION: Victorinox Classic Mexico National Flag
The flag of Mexico (Spanish: Bandera de México) is a vertical tricolor of green, white, and red with the national coat of arms charged in the center of the white stripe.
Red, white, and green are the colors of the national liberation army in Mexico. The central emblem is the Aztec pictogram for Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City), the center of the Aztec empire. The coat of arms has had the same features throughout: an eagle, holding a serpent in its talon, is perched on top of a prickly pear cactus; the cactus is situated on a rock that rises above a lake. The coat of arms is derived from an Aztec legend that their gods told them to build a city where they spot an eagle on a nopal eating a serpent, which is now Mexico City.
Reference:
www.wikipedia.com
Red, white, and green are the colors of the national liberation army in Mexico. The central emblem is the Aztec pictogram for Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City), the center of the Aztec empire. The coat of arms has had the same features throughout: an eagle, holding a serpent in its talon, is perched on top of a prickly pear cactus; the cactus is situated on a rock that rises above a lake. The coat of arms is derived from an Aztec legend that their gods told them to build a city where they spot an eagle on a nopal eating a serpent, which is now Mexico City.
Viva Mexico!
Reference:
www.wikipedia.com
COLLECTION: Victorinox Alox Classic SD 58mm
My first Victorinox Alox Classic SD in green! I'm liking the feel of alox. If only Victorinox can do one with an LED light and a retractable pen, I'll be a happy man!
I'll have to find a cheaper practice knife to test my Alox lite mod.
This one is a keeper!
HOW TO: G10 Liner mod for Victorinox Tinker 91mm
I've recently helped out a member of our SAK Collectors Facebook group. She was asking to mod a regular Victorinox 91mm Tinker and replace all the aluminum liners with G10. The SAK will be used during sailing and the aluminum liners doesn't play well with salt water.
G10 is basically a glass cloth-reinforced epoxy sheet or better known as fiberglass. G10 has extremely high mechanical strength, good dielectric loss properties, and good electric strength properties, both wet and dry. It's mainly used in the electronics field (reference 1). In the knife/SAK modding world, it's usually used as a liner for knives used in saltwater environments where other metallic liners will suffer from galvanic corrosion. It is also an easy way to add color to the modded knife without resorting to anodizing metals. It is also used to lighten the overall weight of the knife.
The mod started with disassembling the knife as posted here.
Before starting to cut and sand the G10 material, some safety precautions. Fiberglass dust in general is very toxic and can harm your (and the people around you) lungs. Wear appropriate respirator (I use a 3M industrial grade respirator). As an added precaution, I wet sand G10 only, never dry. I do this while wearing the respirator. Do the cutting outdoors while wearing a respirator and some gloves, fiberglass edge is sharp enough to cut your fingers.
I cut the G10 material (yellow, 1mm thick in this case) into 95mm x 25mm portions and then proceed with drilling the holes before I cut the outline. In this way, I can ensure that the holes are always aligned with respect to the outline of the liner. I use a jeweller's saw with #3 saw blade.
I'm currently using a very crappy dremel workstation as my drill press which suffers from a lot of play and sliding during drilling. I usually use the old liners as my drilling guide to minimize the sliding of the bit once it hits the material to drill. I drill the two outer holes and the put pins to ensure alignment and then drill the two inner holes.
After drilling the holes, I proceed to cut and shape the outline. I use fresh liners (not used as a guide for drilling) so that I'm sure that the holes are not damaged.
After these processes, I finally get the finished G10 liner.
Assembly is just straight forward. I you're familiar with my SAK Deconstruction posts you can use them as guides during the assembly process. Just make sure to have enough brass pins for the number of layers you're assembling. I usually test each layer for the "spring back" after every layer is assembled, so that I can quickly spot problem before all the layers are assembled.
After cutting and peening the brass pins, you will get something like this. Be careful during peening, don't over peen them. Always check the tools (including the back tools) after 1-2 hammer strikes. I learned it the hard way when I over peened the (first time) the outer pin and then (second time) the inner pin. Good thing is I learned my lesson after those two mishaps. If you over peened, the only fix is to drill out the pin and re-start peening it using a fresh pin.
Also, make sure to file the peened pins so that they are flushed against the brass spacer. The cellidor scale will not fit of there's a bump on these pins.
Another set using transparent G10.
Last shot of the two before shipping.
Reference:
(1) http://www.eplastics.com/G10_FR4_Glass_Epoxy_Sheet
G10 is basically a glass cloth-reinforced epoxy sheet or better known as fiberglass. G10 has extremely high mechanical strength, good dielectric loss properties, and good electric strength properties, both wet and dry. It's mainly used in the electronics field (reference 1). In the knife/SAK modding world, it's usually used as a liner for knives used in saltwater environments where other metallic liners will suffer from galvanic corrosion. It is also an easy way to add color to the modded knife without resorting to anodizing metals. It is also used to lighten the overall weight of the knife.
The mod started with disassembling the knife as posted here.
Before starting to cut and sand the G10 material, some safety precautions. Fiberglass dust in general is very toxic and can harm your (and the people around you) lungs. Wear appropriate respirator (I use a 3M industrial grade respirator). As an added precaution, I wet sand G10 only, never dry. I do this while wearing the respirator. Do the cutting outdoors while wearing a respirator and some gloves, fiberglass edge is sharp enough to cut your fingers.
I cut the G10 material (yellow, 1mm thick in this case) into 95mm x 25mm portions and then proceed with drilling the holes before I cut the outline. In this way, I can ensure that the holes are always aligned with respect to the outline of the liner. I use a jeweller's saw with #3 saw blade.
I'm currently using a very crappy dremel workstation as my drill press which suffers from a lot of play and sliding during drilling. I usually use the old liners as my drilling guide to minimize the sliding of the bit once it hits the material to drill. I drill the two outer holes and the put pins to ensure alignment and then drill the two inner holes.
After drilling the holes, I proceed to cut and shape the outline. I use fresh liners (not used as a guide for drilling) so that I'm sure that the holes are not damaged.
After these processes, I finally get the finished G10 liner.
Assembly is just straight forward. I you're familiar with my SAK Deconstruction posts you can use them as guides during the assembly process. Just make sure to have enough brass pins for the number of layers you're assembling. I usually test each layer for the "spring back" after every layer is assembled, so that I can quickly spot problem before all the layers are assembled.
After cutting and peening the brass pins, you will get something like this. Be careful during peening, don't over peen them. Always check the tools (including the back tools) after 1-2 hammer strikes. I learned it the hard way when I over peened the (first time) the outer pin and then (second time) the inner pin. Good thing is I learned my lesson after those two mishaps. If you over peened, the only fix is to drill out the pin and re-start peening it using a fresh pin.
Also, make sure to file the peened pins so that they are flushed against the brass spacer. The cellidor scale will not fit of there's a bump on these pins.
Another set using transparent G10.
Last shot of the two before shipping.
Reference:
(1) http://www.eplastics.com/G10_FR4_Glass_Epoxy_Sheet
Monday, December 01, 2014
COLLECTION: Victorinox SwissFlame 91mm (2000s)
The SwissFlame is one of the unique models produced by Victorinox. The basic toolset is the same as the Climber with plus scales and a bulky butane cartridge and lighter in the middle. It is fairly rare, produced from 2002 to 2005 only and was not available for sale in the US. This model had problems in the lighter mechanism and how it holds the butane charge when not in use. This model is highly collectible owing to the short production run and unavailability of direct sales in the US.
It was available in Translucent Red (Ruby) cellidor scales (Item Number: 1.3705.FT) and Translucent Blue (Sapphire) cellidor scales (Item Number: 1.3705.FT2).
The SwissFlame has a brother-model, the CampFlame which has the base tool similar to a Camper with hook and fine screwdriver at the back layer and the butane cartridge/lighter mechanism in the middle.
Video of the SwissFlame in action. This particular SAK has not been charged with butane for a long while and the seller was not sure it was still working. Good thing it worked (somewhat) after a few trials.
It was available in Translucent Red (Ruby) cellidor scales (Item Number: 1.3705.FT) and Translucent Blue (Sapphire) cellidor scales (Item Number: 1.3705.FT2).
The SwissFlame has a brother-model, the CampFlame which has the base tool similar to a Camper with hook and fine screwdriver at the back layer and the butane cartridge/lighter mechanism in the middle.
Video of the SwissFlame in action. This particular SAK has not been charged with butane for a long while and the seller was not sure it was still working. Good thing it worked (somewhat) after a few trials.
COLLECTION: My First Victorinox 84mm (2010s)
Victorinox has targeted specifically young users for this model. It has a shorter blade compared to the normal 84mm main blade owing to its rounded and wider tip. Although it is still sharp on one edge, the lack of a pointed tip makes it safer for children and early teens to use. The use of the combination tool versus the normal dual tool in the opener layer considers the safety for the user as well as the combination tool has less sharp edges that the two normal opener tools.
This model has the nylon scale (Item number: 2.2363) but this is also available in Translucent Blue (Item Number: 0.2363.T2), Translucent Red (Item Number: 0.2363.T) and Translucent Pink (Item Number: 0.2363.T5) cellidor scales.
This model has the nylon scale (Item number: 2.2363) but this is also available in Translucent Blue (Item Number: 0.2363.T2), Translucent Red (Item Number: 0.2363.T) and Translucent Pink (Item Number: 0.2363.T5) cellidor scales.
COLLECTION: Victorinox Classic Israel National Flag 58mm
Great example of a SAK without the Victorinox Cross Shield.
* I will include information on where to buy these collectible knives so that if you want to start your own collection, you can jump start it. This is not an endorsement of the online store/seller. Please do your own research regarding prices/delivery/etc.
I bought this Classic with Israel National flag at http://www.zahal.org.
www.wikipedia.com
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